Bespoke vs made-to-measure
Bespoke means a pattern cut from scratch to your body, 3+ fittings, 8–12 weeks turnaround. Made-to-measure modifies a base pattern. Bespoke prices £3,500+ in London, €2,500+ in Naples; made-to-measure £1,500–2,500 anywhere serious.
London
London Savile Row is the global benchmark. Henry Poole (founded 1806), Anderson & Sheppard (Prince of Wales tailor), Huntsman, Gieves & Hawkes, Norton & Sons. Structured English shoulder, drape cut, formal-wear specialty. Mayfair base. Initial fitting requires single trip; subsequent fittings can be done at firm-organized "tailor trunk shows" in major cities worldwide.
Naples
Naples Neapolitan soft shoulder revolutionized tailoring 100 years ago. Rubinacci (Giovanni Rubinacci's house), Cesare Attolini, Kiton (more industrial-luxury), Ciardi. Lighter construction, hand-finished details, less structured. €4,000–8,000 bespoke. Naples shoulder ("spalla camicia") iconic.
Milan
Milan Caraceni (multiple distinct firms — A. Caraceni, Tommy & Giulio Caraceni, Ferdinando Caraceni). Italian aristocrats and politicians dressed here for a century. Cleaner-line cut than Naples; less structured than London. Schedule weeks ahead.
Florence
Florence Liverano & Liverano (Antonio Liverano legend), Sartoria Vestrucci. Strong men's-tailoring scene plus annual Pitti Uomo trade fair brings the world's best craftsmen here.
Paris
Paris Smalto, Camps de Luca, Cifonelli. French tailoring stylistically distinct — sharper, slightly theatrical. Cifonelli's "shoulder roll" iconic. Less famous than London or Italy but world-class.
Strategy
Three trips minimum (initial measurement, baste fitting, final fitting). Tailors may do trunk shows in your home city — ask. Don't rush — first bespoke suit takes 6 months reasonable.