The independent bookshop test
Chains exist everywhere; independent bookshop density is the real signal. Below are cities where you can browse a different shop daily for a week and find different inventory each time.
Paris
Paris Shakespeare and Company is the famous one but also the worst-curated. Better: La Hune (rebuilt), Galignani, Librairie Vendôme, L'Écume des Pages. Saint-Germain historic literary heart.
Lisbon
Lisbon Bertrand Chiado founded 1732 — Guinness Book holder for oldest bookshop. Ler Devagar in LX Factory. Livraria Sá da Costa for antiquarian. Fewer English-language options than Paris but architecturally striking.
London
London Daunt Books (multiple), Hatchards (1797), Foyles, Stanfords (travel), Persephone Books (women's). Charing Cross Road historically dense; Notting Hill for boutique.
Edinburgh
Edinburgh Topping & Company, Lighthouse, Armchair Books. UNESCO City of Literature designation. Compact city makes browsing efficient.
Berlin
Berlin Dussmann (huge English section), Pro qm (architecture/theory), Buchhändlerkeller (used books). German + English bilingual scene strong.
Strategy
Combine with cafés — Lisbon especially built around café-bookshop hybrids. Literature lovers guide is the broader companion.