What aperitivo actually is
The pre-dinner Italian ritual — drink + free or cheap food, between 6–9pm. The form differs by city: Milan invented the buffet (€10 cocktail, all-you-can-eat), Turin pioneered the cocktail itself (Negroni, Americano, vermouth), Florence keeps it cocktail-and-cicchetti. Visiting all three reveals how regional this is.
Milan
Milan Bar Basso (the Negroni Sbagliato birthplace), Camparino in Galleria, Terrazza Aperol, Bulgari Bar. Buffet aperitivo in Navigli after sunset along the canals — €10–14 buys cocktail + food.
Turin
Turin historic vermouth and bitters capital. Caffè Mulassano, Caffè Torino, Bar Fiorio. Cocktail-with-snacks tradition (Pinsa, salumi) instead of buffet. Negroni and Americano belong here.
Bologna
Bologna aperitivo with crescentine and salumi — neighborhood baracche serve seriously good charcuterie alongside €5 spritz. Less performative than Milan.
Florence
Florence Negroni was invented here (Caffè Casoni, now Caffè Giacosa). Manifattura, Mad Souls and Spirits, Locale. Cocktail-and-cicchetti format like Turin.
Rome
Rome aperitivo less formalized but strong — Trastevere bars (Freni e Frizioni) and Testaccio (Sancho). Strong American cocktail influence.
Strategy
Aperitivo is dinner replacement when buffet is good. Milan Navigli or Brera 6:30pm Wednesday–Saturday optimal. Skip aperitivo at hotel bars (overpriced, less authentic).