What "real paella" means
Paella Valenciana (the original): rabbit, chicken, snails, garrofó beans, judía verde beans, saffron, paprika, rice. Paella de mariscos (seafood paella) is a Catalan adaptation, also valid but distinct. Tourist-zone "mixed paella" with chorizo is genuinely insulting to Valencians — chorizo never appears in real paella.
Valencia
Valencia the birthplace. La Pepica (1898, since Hemingway and Sorolla days, beachfront), Casa Roberto, Restaurante Bon Aire (Albufera village El Palmar). Lunch only — paella is a midday dish (1pm–3pm). €25–45 per person typical for genuine paella with rabbit and chicken.
Albufera (south of Valencia)
El Palmar village in Albufera lake (40-min drive south of Valencia center) — paella made over orange-wood fire as historically done. Bon Aire, El Sequer del Cuiner. Day-trip with rented car or organized tour. Lake setting peaceful.
Madrid
Madrid not paella heartland but several excellent restaurants. La Barraca (since 1935, Valencian-Madrid). Tabernas in Madrid often add chorizo, which is wrong but popular. Centro Madrid base.
Barcelona
Barcelona paella de mariscos (seafood) and arròs negre (black rice with squid ink) the local versions. 7 Portes, Can Solé (Barceloneta). Barceloneta beachfront classic. €30–50 per person.
Sevilla
Sevilla good paella in select tabernas but Andalusian rice dishes (arroz a banda, arroz caldoso) sometimes better choices. Eslava, La Brunilda.
Strategy
Eat paella for lunch (1pm–3pm) — afternoon paella suspect. Single-portion paella in restaurants is awkward (paella is shared), so come 2+ people. Avoid frozen (look for "menu del día" cheap paella signs at lunch — those are usually frozen).